"Ulverston is a pretty market town best known for catering to hungry fell walkers: ‘you certainly don’t expect exceptional cooking in a guesthouse’. But Craig Sherrington trained with David Everitt-Matthias at Le Champignon Sauvage (see entry) as well as Eric Chavot, although his tasting menus are entirely his own, inspired by the natural larder of Cumbria. He piles on diverse flavours with brio: in a goat's cheese bonbon with pear purée, say, or a shot glass of tomato water that’s ‘the fresh essence of summer’, and by serving celeriac velouté with rhubarb and kale doughnut or a duck breast with asparagus and caramelised onions. Elsewhere, sea bass is invigorated with roast and puréed cauliflower, buttermilk and parsley oil and leaf, while a pork dish uses fillet, belly, black pudding and pancetta, with a wild garlic barley risotto and broccoli spears for balance. Puddings include a mini soufflé with jam and custard and with coffee, vanilla fudge, chocolate and fig jelly. Service, led by Louise Sherrington, is ‘clearly bursting with pride with so much talent in the kitchen’. There’s a well-stocked gin bar, too, and a short but well-targeted wine list."